(c) the forward portion of the trigger arm is spring loaded to act as a disconnector. (b) the forward engagement surface of the trigger is incompatible with a standard model 1919 sear plate. (a) the trigger incorporates a return spring. The trigger is redesigned to permit only a single shot to be fired each time the trigger is pulled.(b) it is permanently attached to the trunion, top plate and bottom plate with deep, penetrating TIG welds (BATFE has subsequently dropped this requirement). (a) it is slotted to permit assembly and function with a redesigned barrel extension, lock frame and bolt. The right sideplate is thicker than a standard model 1919 right sideplate.FAL Tutorial: Installing FAL Israel Gas Block.The rearmost rivet doesn't look too bad, on that one I started pounding the rivet flat with the large rectangular block until it expanded a fair amount, then use the small rivet cup to round the edges, so if you really want to go the brute force route, that's the way to go.Īll that's left is to press in the barrel, drill the barrel pin holes, and parkerize the whole shebang. I might re-do it some day when I have proper tools, but I doubt it'll fail, so whatever. It doesn't look pretty, but it seems pretty solid, so meh. Bad idea, the rivet started to bend and after that there was no going back. I used the trigger guard block as an anvil, and I wanted to have rounded rivet heads on both sides, so the idea was to use the small rivet cup as a punch on the hammer side. The rivets come out looking kind of crappy: Well, I'm not really going to go into too much detail on this one, because you shouldn't do it this way. Rivets turned out OK, not the prettiest, but meh, that trigger guard's not goin' anywhere:Ĭhecking the mag for a nice tight lockup: Almost broke my thumb though, so like I said before, I don't recommend it.Īnyway, moving to the rear rivet, just turn the anvil upside down and apply your pressure source of choice: I tried using my cheapo harbor freight air hammer, but it didn't have enough oomph, so I grabbed my 3Lb sledge and went at it. What I'm about to describe is dangerous and hazardous to your health, and generally a bad idea, so I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU HURT YOURSELF, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME, DON'T SUE ME PLZ KTHX, ETC. Once everything's in place, put the lower anvil plate over the 4 trigger guard rivets inside the receiver, and straddle the upper anvil piece over the center support: Getting the trigger guard and rivets situated in the jig is pretty self explanatory. I had to bevel one of the edges on the little anvil piece to make clearance for the lower rail, like so: Crush the rivets through the magwell, and you'll be done! You'll have a beautifully riveted front trunnion!įor the trigger guard, I used the ak-builder trigger guard jig: Use the rivet tool to squeeze it into the receiver, making a dimple for the swell neck rivets. Take a 1/4" ball bearing and place it on the rivet hole like so: Make sure to crush the rivets deep enough that the barrel will clear them. Start with the front rivets, then do the middle rivets. These things are pretty easy to use, just keep downward pressure on the rivet and try to keep the jaws level (I got carried away and got one of the rivets a little crooked, not that big a deal, but eh). They're pretty easy to re-sell these days. I tried to grind the jaws myself like shown here, however, after days of picking metal slivers out of my hands and realizing I'd have to buy a ball end mill to make the rivet cup, I decided to just buy the Toth rivet jaws.
#AK RIVET BOLT CUTTER MODIFICATION INSTALL#
I used the bolt cutter method to install the rivets with some harbor freight 24" bolt cutters. On mine, the holes for the middle rivets didn't line up, but it was close enough, so I just drilled out the hole to the same diameter as the rivet. The swell neck rivets go in the holes closest to the mag well. Place the rivets in the holes to hold the trunnion in position, and tape the ones in on the bottom side. Make sure the front trunnion holes line up. Clamp it close to the center support to avoid squishing the receiver too much. However, I do have a shelf and a bar clamp, so I clamped it to the shelf. Check here to see if you're configuration is legal: GunWiki 7.62x39 Go/No Go headspace guages: Link ($54)įor compliance parts, I'm using a Tapco G2 trigger group (3) US made barrel and receiver (2) and a US made muzzle brake (haven't decided on one yet).Drill press with 7mm end mill (to drill the barrel pin holes).AK-builder trigger guard jig: Link ($75 shipped).Toth tool rivet jaws: Link ($75 shipped).Romanian Parts kit: Link ($250, us made barrel).Also, I'm only building one.stop laughing. So I wanted to build an AK, but I have no use for a hydraulic press or any of the other gizmos out there people spend hundreds of dollars on.
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